0% Dyes and Perfumes
Factory vs. Non-factory. Artificial vs. Natural. Is there really no difference? Maybe your eyes and powers of deductive reasoning are all you need to guide you on this one.
Organic vs. Nonorganic / Fragrance vs. Fragrance-Free: Is There Really Still a Controversy Over Which is Better for You?
For over 20 years, I have casually studied natural remedies. I first became interested after reading “Fast Food Nation” in college. I have since read various books and scientific studies on the use of manmade chemicals on the human endocrine system and the environment. At the beginning of that journey, I was more concerned about the protection of our freshwater ways, fish hatcheries, animal reproductive health, and human cancer. In my older age, I also came to understand that the cumulative effect of chemical exposure on our bodies can lead to inflammation, which shows up as redness, itchiness, puffiness, and weeping sores on our skin. And being older, skin health has become more of a concern not just for vanity’s sake, but because issues showing up on skin can be indicators of what’s going on inside the body.
Despite literature having been published on this topic for 20+ years, I listened to a podcast today from a nutritional scientist with over a million subscribers who said that buying organic was a huge waste of money. He argued that there was no science to back up the nutritional value of organic foods, and I assume by that same token, no real harm done by pesticides, herbicides, petrochemical fertilizers and other unnatural processes in conventional food production.
I also assume he only means harm to human health, and he did not site any studies so I can’t say who backed them (e.g., Monsanto). But even so, 20 years later, another bout of researching the topic led me to the same conclusion as before: organic and fragrance-free cosmetics are better for people and the planet. Anecdotally, this also stands true. Many women ask me about eczema and report sensitivities to preservatives, dyes, and fragrance in cosmetic and household products.
Given the continued controversy, I wanted to take a moment to write some scientific findings and doctors’ opinions about artificial perfumes or “fragrance” in the beauty and cosmetics industry.
Redacted! Disclosure not allowed.
The chemical makeup of “fragrance” is a trade secret, the components of which are not disclosed. This is problematic.
There are at least 3,500 fragrance ingredients that can be used in consumer products while tens of thousands of chemicals are used in global commerce. These include insidious masking agents, which are added to consumer products claiming to be natural and unscented. Instead, they’re using a chemical masking agent to hide unpleasant odors.
Fragrances are typically a combination of dozens or hundreds of different chemicals. However, they are singularly listed as “fragrance” in consumer products. This is allowed because a company’s nondisclosure is protected as a trade secret under the U.S. federal regulatory scheme.
Nondisclosure is problematic, as consumers are not able to avoid potentially harmful ingredients known as carcinogens, hormone-disruptors, and allergens for which there can be dozens within any one fragrance formula. For instance, pthalates, parabens, nonylphenols, triclosan, PFAs and petrochemicals may be hidden under the category of fragrance. (Solomon et al. 2024) These chemical compounds are also known endocrine disruptors that are linked to cancer, neurodevelopmental harm, and infertility. (Id.; see also Di Renzo et al. 2015).
Eczema affects approximately 31.6 million Americans and carries an annual cost of over $5 billion.
Let’s talk about redness, rosacea and eczema.
For most people, the word “carcinogen” is nothing more than an abstract concept. Even if we know that coffee, cigarettes, hot dogs, BBQ and roasted peanuts are carcinogenic, most of us will still consume them. Same with cosmetics. We only live once. We want to enjoy life and look good doing it.
So if the possibility of a cancerous death later in life is not enough to convince you, let’s talk about eczema.
Skin conditions like eczema (aka atopic dermatitis) is one of those things that anyone affected by it will immediately tell you they’d like to get rid of asap. It has an immediate affect on your quality of life, including physical discomfort, sleep disturbance, adverse emotional impacts, and impaired social life. And guess what? Your perfumed cosmetic and other household products might be a contributing factor to it.
According to studies cited by the Allergy & Asthma Network, approximately 31.6 million people in the U.S. have some form of eczema while 15% of children have it.
So how does chemical exposure to fragrance lead to eczema? While genetics are a factor, studies in Europe have shown that continuous exposure to fragrance can lead to skin sensitization. This is when a person develops a contact skin allergy after re-exposure to a sufficient amount of fragrance allergens over their lifetime. (European Commission 2012). At some point, the accumulation leads to an allergic reaction, increases in severity, and eventually triggers eczema flareups.
In Europe, studies found that 16% of eczema patients also had sensitization to fragrance. In the U.S., data shows sensitization in 11% of the population. (Safe Cosmetics citing Schnuch 2004).
For those who are already sensitized, the European Commission recommended contact avoidance and advocated more studies and more disclosures on product labels. (European Commission 2012). In the U.S., some labeling reform is underway although many dermatologists continue to recommend chemical-laden cleansers and moisturizers along with prescription medications.
Despite the availability of these various treatments, eczema remains prevalent. In 2015, Americans spent a total $5.3 billion on eczema-related issues. (Drucker 2015). This includes doctor’s visits, emergency room visits, out-of pocket expenses at the drugstore and prescription medications. (Id.) The largest expense was notably missed days from work. (Id.)
I started making my own muscle balm after finding out a well-known popular brand that I loved used petroleum in it — the same petroleum that causes oil spills, air pollution, water pollution and global warming.
What About the Environment?
Many products advertised as being “natural” still contain petrochemicals like 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogenic contaminant. These petrochemicals are derived from petroleum — you know, the stuff that’s mined from the earth and contaminating the land, water and air.
A Counterpoint
If you are reading this, you probably have a genuine interest in health and environmental stewardship. However, to be fair, I am publishing a counterpoint written in response to a New York Times article about a mom, blogger and lawyer from Virginia who threw away chemical-laden cosmetics and household items while pregnant with her daughter. “Sara from Boston” writes:
“My husband and I have this battle daily. I prefer traditional cleaning products, used correctly, and he only uses organic. Our dishes don't get clean in the dishwasher, and his clothes (washed separately) never smell clean and fresh. So there are several issues here. First, do the organic products work? I don't think so. Second, are they harmful? The jury is still out. Third, what is the psychological landscape of individuals who obsess over the use of these chemicals and the impact on their health? I believe that it is a way to ward off feelings of existential depression, or fool oneself into thinking they have very much control over their lifespan. Personally, my fresh-smelling laundry makes me happy.”
Tested on best friends, never animals. And I’m subject #1 for testing all products.
What form of happiness will you decide?
To be honest, I have to agree with Sara that I’m not a huge fan of organic products if they don’t work or smell pleasant. I’ve tried a lot of organic cosmetic products on the market and have been disappointed. For instance, one organic brand used citrus oils which causes photosensitivity. Another brand claimed to use a natural, plant-based form of Retin-A (bakuchiol) and caused my skin to tingle. I mistakenly thought this meant that the product was doing magic; however, my aesthetician noted my skin was looking more red than usual. No other changes like wrinkle reduction, dark spot reduction or clarity were noted.
I was tired of spending $60 each time I wanted to try a new cream, mask and serum, so I made my own. I was really, truly surprised. I was hoping for something decent. With my first face cream, I got something even better than whatever bakuchiol, rare fruit extract, or other new exotic ingredient on the market claimed to provide.
Not all of my formulations have been successful. They also lack the convenience factor of not being shelf stable forever and ever. However, I believe in these products and I only sell what I think is better than what you can find on the market today, whether organic or non-organic.
So, my answer to Sara is that we can have both. We can have happiness for ourselves and the planet along with a great product that works. These great products are made not with new technologies but ancient techniques that withstood the test of time.
However, don’t take my word for it. Try it for yourself. There are lots of recipes on Mountain Rose Herbs and Herbal Academy’s websites. Or for a few dollars you can try a sample of one of my products by clicking on the link below:
In friendship and mirth,
Nelly Sangrujiveth, Owner and Formulator for Bloom & Skye
Solomon, Caren G. et al. (2024). Health Effects of Fossil Fuel-Derived Endocrine Disruptors. New England Journal of Medicine; 390:922-933. Available at https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMra2300476
European Commission (2012). Opinion on Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. Available at https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_102.pdf
Strauss FJ III, Barbieri R, Dokras A, Williams CJ, Williams Z, eds. (2024) Yen & Jaffe’s reproductive endocrinology: physiology, pathophysiology, and clinical management. 9th ed. Philadelphia: Elsevier. Available at https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=DOK2EAAAQBAJ&oi=fnd&pg=PP1&ots=FONr4la9TZ&sig=2MUfxLdYNiuJ0hV98Tcz4mi32f0#v=onepage&q&f=false
Di Renzo, G.C. et al. (2015) International Federal of Gynecology and Obstetrics opinion on reproductive health impacts of exposure to toxic environmental chemicals. Int J Gynaecol Obstet; 131(3): 219-25. Available at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26433469/
Drucker, A.M. et al. (2015) The Burden of Atopic Dermatitis: Summary of a Report for the National Eczema Association. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. Vol 137, Issue 1. January 2017, pp. 26-30. Available at https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022202X16321200
Safe Cosmetics, “Fragrance Ingredient Disclosure.” Available at https://safecosmetics.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Learn-More-Additional-Resources-Fragrance-Disclosure-Policy-Fact-Sheet.pdf
